For optimum results use times in BOLD type. Never use a developing time less than four (4) minutes.

KODAK, T-MAX 400

KODAK, TRI-X Pan 400

ILFORD, HP-5 Plus (exposed @ 400 ISO)

Film Processing Procedure  (Step by step)

1. Make sure that you have all necessary materials before entering the darkroom and  remember that for processing film there is NO "safe" light.  You must have TOTAL DARKNESS.  Bring into the darkroom your; 1. film canister of exposed film, 2. can opener, 3. scissors, 4. Light tight film processing canister and reels. 

2. Open the metal film canister of the exposed roll of film with the rounded end of the can opener.  Slide the film out into the palm of your hand.   Try not to handle the emulsion side (the in facing side) of the film.

3. After cutting off the "leader" of the roll of film. carefully load the film on to the film processing reel.  When the film is completely loaded, cut or tear off the last inch or so of the film where it is attached with a piece of tape at the now empty plastic reel

4. Put the now loaded film processing reel into the film processing tank and then close the tank with the light tight lid.  Double check the lid to ensure that it is light tight.

5. Gather up your materials and discard - in the garbage can - the film leader and old canister.  Take your loaded film processing tank to the "wet" area for chemical processing.

6. Check the appropriate chart above for the correct time and temperature for the specific type of film that you wish to process. 

7. Set the timer for the correct time.

8. From the large stock chemical container pour the proper amount of developer and water mixture (make sure the temperature is correct) for your size tank and film into a clean and well rinsed "graduate".

9. Slowly pour the developer mixture into the light tight opening of the film tank.  Start the timer.  Give the tank a light but firm tap against a solid surface to dislodge any bubbles clinging to the film.  Slowly agitate the film for the first 30 seconds of the developing time and for the first 15 seconds of each remaining minute. 

10. At the end of the developing time discard the developer.  This is not saved or reused.

11. Reset the timer for 30 seconds and them give the film a running water "stop-bath" for that 30 seconds.  (Your should fill up and empty the tank at least two times for a complete stop-bath.)  This procedure dilutes the developer to the point where the developing[ process is stopped.

12. Fill a graduate with an amount of "Fixer" (never use the inappropriate term "hypo" in reference to fixer) that will fill your tank properly.  Set the timer for 10 minutes, pour in the fixer and tap and agitate in the manner described in #9.  (Slowly agitate the film for the first 30 seconds of the fixing time and for the 15 seconds of each remaining minute.)  Do not discard the FIXER.  Pour the fixer back into the large "stock" fixer container and then replace the lid.  The film is now permanently fixed and no longer light sensitive.  The tank may now be open.

13. Rinse the film for 30 seconds with running water. Discard the remaining water. 

14. Fill the tank containing the film with "hypo clear".   Agitate slowly and gently for 5 minutes (15 seconds at the top of each minute) then discard the hypo clear.  Put the film - still on the reel - into the film washing tube and wash for two minutes

15. Remove the film from the reel and with the help of a classmate, one person hold the end of the film in a vertical position while the other firmly squeegee the full length of the film with a dampened and well wrung natural hide chamois.  From this point on avoid contact with the film as much as possible.  Hang the film to dry for at least two to four hours.

16. When the film is dry, with as little contact as possible, cut the film in to five frame strips and immediately insert the strips into the plastic film envelopes for storage.